Around November 11, the winemakers of Neusiedlersee DAC open their cellars. But Martiniloben is about much more than young wines and goose. Seven facts that only a few people know.

With the support of the federal government, the province and the European Union.

When autumn unfolds in all its splendour in Burgenland, wine lovers from near and far are drawn to Lake Neusiedl. Before, on and after St Martin’s Day, winemakers open their cellars, pour the new vintage and let guests share in a tradition that is more than a convivial tasting – Martiniloben.

In its current form, it was officially celebrated for the first time in Gols from November 10 to 12, 1989. Since then, it has become a fixture in the annual calendar for wine lovers – with over 50,000 visitors flocking to the region year after year. But beyond cellar tourism, St Martin’s goose and Sturm (in the glass), there are aspects of this festival that aren’t obvious at first glance …

1. From church feast to farmers’ calendar

Celebrating around Martini is not an “invention of the winemakers”. The tradition goes back to the end of the farmers’ working year. On November 11 – the feast day of Saint Martin and the patron saint of Burgenland – lease agreements used to be renewed or terminated and payments in kind became due. This also included the “new” wine. Almost forgotten today, Martini was still a “farmers’ day” in the 18th and 19th centuries.

2. A fresh start in 1988/89

Even if the name sounds ancient – Martiniloben as we know it today was revived in Gols by Frauenkirchen’s Sepp Sailer and the Golser winemaker Paul Wendelin, and within just a few years became Austria’s biggest wine autumn festival.

3. The original “praise”

The tradition itself is older. Around Martini, farmers tasted their young wines and didn’t hold back with praise – even if the quality certainly couldn’t match today’s. This ritualised “praise” gave today’s festival its name and shows that conviviality mattered more than perfection.

4. Foundation for Neusiedlersee DAC

What looked like a tourism boost at the time was, in truth, the birth of the region’s origin concept. In the very first years of Martiniloben, winemakers put topics such as typicity, regional grape varieties, craftsmanship and quality centre stage. In hindsight, the festival is considered one of the trailblazers of the Neusiedlersee DAC project, successful both nationally and internationally.

5. A patron with a double life

Saint Martin is a record-holder among patron saints. From soldiers to tailors, from beggars to innkeepers – he holds his protective hand over them all. Particularly curious: Martinus, known as an ascetic, is also the patron saint of teetotallers AND winemakers.

6. A social “marriage market”

In the past, Martiniloben was also an opportunity for young people to meet – similar to church fairs. With the farming year completed, there was finally room again for leisure and celebration. It’s said that quite a few marriages in Burgenland began here.

7. Goosefully delicious

And because anyone who drinks also has to eat, the finale naturally features goose – which belongs to Martini as surely as salt belongs in soup. What’s more, eating goose at Martini also has historical reasons. On the one hand, farmers often had to pay their taxes in kind – and that included geese. On the other hand, around Martini the six-week pre-Christmas fasting period began, and people filled their bellies one last time with roast goose so they wouldn’t have to feed too many of the animals over winter. So the fact that Martinigansl and young wine go hand in hand today is a culinary reminder of old church traditions and obligations to pay dues.

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NEUSIEDLERSEE DAC.
Unique Zweigelt. Unique sweet wines.
From Austria’s sunny side. A delight for every palate.

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