Will Zweigelt become the new international flagship of the Austrian wine world? There are currently many indications that the Veltliner saga will now be followed by the next coup – this time in red. Master Sommelier Stefan Neumann explains to the trade magazine Rolling Pin why.

With the support of the federal government, the province and the European Union.

If one believes novelist Uwe Timm, the color red is truly special. Scarlet red. Carmine red. Crimson red. No other color has as many named shades as red, he claims in his novel “Rot” (Red), named after the color. And indeed, it appears that one red wine grape variety is attempting to imitate as many shades of red as possible: Zweigelt. From rosé to dark red, it achieves this in an impressive manner.

However, this also entails the fact that each of these color facets brings a different style to the glass. Zweigelt can display many different expressions, from fruity-light to deep and characterful. And this may be precisely the trump card explaining why this quintessentially Austrian grape variety has experienced an almost meteoric rise within the Austrian wine world in recent years. Why Zweigelt is now quite obviously poised to make the great leap to the top of the international wine elite. And thus, following the sensational global success of Grüner Veltliner over the past ten years, is set to become Austria’s second wine flagship. This is the conclusion reached by the trade magazine Rolling Pin.

Surprising Development

Indeed, Grüner Veltliner from Austria is now on the shopping list of every top sommelier and wine buyer, says Master Sommelier Stefan Neumann. He adds: “I wouldn’t have thought that ten years ago either.” The Austrian spent many years as Director of Wine at the two-Michelin-starred “Dinner by Heston Blumenthal” – today he works internationally as a wine consultant. He sees very clear parallels between the development of Grüner Veltliner and that of Zweigelt.

The red grape variety is just as accessible as it is flexible. Just like Grüner Veltliner, Zweigelt also works with and without wood. Neumann: “Zweigelt is also a wine that simply convinces many non-wine connoisseurs at first sip. That is an enormously important aspect for achieving truly broad success!” In addition, this red wine, provided it has been aged straightforwardly in stainless steel tanks, can be enjoyed both chilled and at red wine temperature. “Especially in summer, a chilled Zweigelt can taste magnificent,” says the top sommelier. At the same time, however, this grape variety is very deliberately enhanced through the targeted use of barrique, making it equally exciting for discerning connoisseurs. “This development is particularly remarkable and surprising to me,” says the expert.

Origin as the Key to Success

In his opinion, the reason for these spectacular expressions of Zweigelt is the intensive emphasis in recent years on the typical regions of origin that are also ideal for this wine – such as Neusiedlersee DAC. This regional definition is very clearly perceived in the global wine world as a guarantee of quality. A mechanism that, incidentally, also formed the basis for the resounding success of Grüner Veltliner, as Neusiedlersee DAC Managing Director Torsten Aumüller emphasizes. “For Zweigelt, too, it is a question of location! Here at Lake Neusiedl, we have what Zweigelt likes and needs: sun and warmth, moderate precipitation, moderate temperature differences between day and night thanks to direct lakeside location, and winemakers who understand their craft. All of this together gives it our regional identity and quality,” says Aumüller.

Stefan Neumann, however, takes his vision for Zweigelt even one step further: “Vines that have already been cultivated to produce high-quality Zweigelt will reach an age over the next ten years when they become particularly exciting.” Brief explanation: The older a vine is, the deeper it roots. Accordingly, the notes typical of the respective terroir can penetrate the grape more effectively. Therefore, Neumann expects the quality and typicity of Zweigelt to become even more refined and defined in the near future. This would enable very small-scale vineyard sites and thus even more multifaceted expressions, which is particularly appreciated among wine experts.

White Trailblazer

What particularly helps Zweigelt on the world market, according to Stefan Neumann, is naturally the path already paved by Veltliner: “Sommeliers and wine buyers trust Austrian wines because the white wines have already caused a sensation.” They have, so to speak, already paved the way somewhat for Zweigelt. A circumstance that Austria’s currently much sought-after red wine export may understand as a birthday present: Exactly 100 years ago, the Zweigelt grape variety was officially registered in the crossing register under the name “Klosterneuburg 71”. In that spirit: Cheers!

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Neusiedlersee DAC.
Unique Zweigelt. Unique sweet wines.
From the sunny side of Austria. For everyone’s palate pleasure.

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