At first glance, winemakers are responsible for crafting fine wines. But upon closer inspection, they are in fact guardians of biodiversity and active climate protectors. This becomes particularly evident in the Neusiedlersee DAC region of origin.

With the support of the federal government, the province and the European Union.

When Johannes Ehrenfeldner talks about wine, it is rarely about aromas or vinification methods. Ehrenfeldner is Director of the Neusiedler See – Seewinkel National Park and thus naturally has a different perspective on what the winemakers of Neusiedlersee DAC are doing on his doorstep. And so he focuses instead on the landscape surrounding the vines—and the role of winemakers as their silent architects, who nurture and maintain an ancient cultural landscape. “Some of them have long since become true landscape gardeners, even if they might not call themselves that,” says Ehrenfeldner, “because those who work in harmony with nature shape not only their vineyard, but the entire cultural landscape.”

Ground Cover Instead of Bare Soil

A prime example for Ehrenfeldner are those winemakers from the region who deliberately leave ground cover between the vine rows—not merely as attractive decoration, but as a conscious tool for greater biodiversity and soil protection. “These grassy areas are not simply mowed; rather, the vegetation is rolled and incorporated into the soil. This reduces evaporation, stores water in the soil, and creates habitat for many different insects,” explains Ehrenfeldner. Anyone who puts their finger under this “grass canopy” feels the effect immediately: “It is up to five degrees cooler there.”

If winemakers can provide scientifically sound evidence that their soils store CO₂, they could even sell CO₂ certificates in the future!

This is not only ecologically wise, but also economically sound. While some winemakers still fear that ground cover takes water away from the vines, practice shows a different picture: “The roots of the vines reach deep, while those of the companion vegetation are only superficial.” They therefore draw from entirely different water layers. What is crucial, however: “Without ground cover, the topsoil dries out much faster.”

Humus as a Treasure Trove

But the resulting benefits extend far beyond economical water use. Naturally vegetated vineyards promote humus formation, bind nutrients, and create organic matter—arguably the most sustainable fertilizer. “You have an incredibly fertile system that reintroduces nutrients into the soil through microorganisms and precipitation,” says Ehrenfeldner. At the same time, the method acts as natural erosion protection—an advantage, particularly in the windy Neusiedlersee DAC region of origin.

And it has an even greater dimension: climate protection. Those who build humus store carbon in the soil—so-called “carbon capture.” In Brussels as well as in professional circles, there is increasing talk of carbon farming, agricultural methods that deliberately bind CO₂. “Things are really taking off,” says Ehrenfeldner, formulating an exciting vision: “If winemakers can provide scientifically sound evidence that their soils store CO₂, they could even sell CO₂ certificates in the future.”

Trees, Shrubs, and Shade

But biodiversity does not end at the soil. More and more winegrowers in the Neusiedlersee DAC region are planting trees and shrubs in their vineyards again. Trees are increasingly seen less as obstacles for modern harvesting machines. Growers are happy to forgo a few vines in order to have shade providers. Ehrenfeldner sees clear advantages for both winemakers and nature: “This recalls old structures we used to have: fruit trees between the vines, flowering strips. This not only creates habitat for birds, bees, and other beneficial organisms, but also provides shade—an aspect that is becoming increasingly important with hotter summers.”

Inspiration Instead of Dogma

Ehrenfeldner sees a clear shift: “Many in the region are beginning to rethink—not out of compulsion, but out of insight. Because they see that it benefits them in the long term.”

The Director of the Neusiedler See – Seewinkel National Park emphasizes that this is not about regulations or dogmas, but about inspiration. “There are already many estates that combine biodiversity and viticulture in impressive ways. When you tell these stories, others also recognize that it is possible—and that in doing so, you not only make good wines, but also preserve landscapes and biodiversity.”

Winemakers as Guardians of the Cultural Landscape

That winemakers are doing far more than fermenting grapes is obvious to Ehrenfeldner: “They cultivate a landscape that is habitat for countless species—and thus remains valuable for us humans as well.” An endeavor that is particularly in focus in the very flat region of Neusiedlersee DAC, where vineyards shape the image of the region like almost nothing else.

The task of winemakers thus extends far beyond the cellar: they are landscape gardeners, biodiversity protectors, and climate protectors all at once. Or, as Ehrenfeldner aptly puts it: “With every vineyard maintained in harmony with nature, winemakers shape not only the taste of their wines—but also the future of our landscape.”

____

NEUSIEDLERSEE DAC.
Unique Zweigelt. Unique sweet wines.
From Austria’s sunny side. A delight for every palate.

____