Zweigelt has long become a liquid emblem of Austria’s national pride. There are good reasons why it is the most popular red wine variety in the country’s vineyards. Enjoyed by many, its bouquet contains far more surprises than you might expect. We took a closer look at Zweigelt’s hidden talents!
It is no coincidence that Zweigelt has become Austria’s favourite variety of red wine. It is flexible, it can develop astonishing facets with or without wood, and it tastes good both chilled in summer and also at a suitable temperature in winter. The main reason why Zweigelt is so multifaceted and yet concise is the recent, intense focus on the typical regions of origin that are ideal for this wine – such as Neusiedlersee DAC. Thanks to the tireless work of the region’s winegrowers, the definition of this region has developed into a very distinct guarantee of quality in the global world of wine. “After all, the same can be said for Zweigelt: It’s all about location! Here at Lake Neusiedl, we have exactly what Zweigelt likes and needs: Sunshine and warmth, moderate rainfall, tolerable differences in temperature between day and night thanks to the direct proximity to the lake, and winegrowers who know their craft. Altogether, this gives Zweigelt its regional identity and quality,” says Neusiedlersee DAC Managing Director Torsten Aumüller.
And one thing is certain: The refined taste of Zweigelt can be hardly expressed in words – you need to smell the aromas, savour the flavours and enjoy the taste. But even aside from its bouquet, Zweigelt has a surprising number of secrets that can be revealed one by one like chapters of a story. So that’s exactly what we’re going to do now!
1. Zweigelt: the liquid superfruit
The Austrian portal Wein & Gesund (Wine & Healthy) has set itself the task of conducting scientific research into the effects of moderate wine consumption on health, led by Univ. Prof. DDr. Wolfgang Graninger. This has already confirmed that 1–2 glasses (125 ml each) of the “right” red wine per day increases life expectancy. Predominantly red wines with a high volume of polyphenols are seen to have an especially good effect on health, which means we are effectively drinking the “immune substances from the vines”, the researchers say. This category includes the especially regionally typical Neusiedlersee DAC wines. In other words, when enjoyed in moderation, they are liquid superfruits!
2. Zweigelt: a masterpiece of versatility
Owing to the cherry, berry and plum aromas that are typical of this variety, Zweigelt is an easily accessible wine. The interaction between soft tannins and moderate acidity makes it an ideal companion for many different dishes without being overpowering. Its variety of vinification styles – ranging from young and fresh to barrique-matured – allows Zweigelt from the Neusiedlersee DAC region of origin to be combined with a wide variety of meals. This is one of the reasons why German chef Tim Raue, who has two stars in the Michelin Guide, is so impressed with Austria’s outstanding red wine. He says: “My dishes display a wide variety of aromas – sometimes you could even call them explosive. Zweigelt is a wonderful accompaniment especially for my main courses: It is balanced and well-rounded where other wines prefer to put themselves in the limelight. It is fruity and harmonious, with mild acidity and tannins. This means it can be presented with meals almost universally, without the wine forcing itself upon you. Above all, I believe its paprika and black pepper notes go very well with Chinese poultry and beef dishes. Kung Pao Chicken is a good example. But I can also imagine duck flavoured with Szechuan pepper would be a good combination for a Zweigelt. Not forgetting the real classic, Black Pepper Beef! This is a dish that naturally goes very, very well with the powerful intensity of a Zweigelt Reserve. Aromatic, spicy Asian cuisine and Zweigelt: an excellent team!”
3. Zweigelt: one of the first Austrian varieties
Zweigelt can perhaps be called the definitive Austrian grape variety, and this is definitely true for red grapes. Bred in 1922 by Austrian viticulture professor and botanist Fritz Zweigelt, it recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. At the time, he crossed the varieties St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch, creating the vine that he originally named Rotburger. However, it was ultimately Fritz Zweigelt’s pupil and admirer Lenz Moser and his development of high culture (Hochkultur) that have enabled the wine as we know it today. The red wine Zweigelt has gone from strength to strength ever since.
4. Zweigelt: grape variety with a selection of names
Popularly known today as Zweigelt, the variety has always had many different names. The official designation Zweigeltrebe Blau is first encountered in 1972, when the new Grape Variety Index for Quality Wines (Qualitätswein) was introduced. It was only later that this name was officially changed to Blauer Zweigelt. At the same time, its original designation Rotburger was officially added at the request of the Klosterneuburg College of Viticulture and Pomology (HBLA), of which Fritz Zweigelt was formerly director. The reason for this was to highlight the common origin of the new varieties Blauburger, Goldburger and Rotburger/Blauer Zweigelt. The name Zweigeltrebe is less common and predominantly used in eastern Europe.
5. Zweigelt: the globetrotter
Although Zweigelt has close links with Austria, it is also cultivated in other countries such as Germany, Czechia and Canada. Its ability to adapt to cooler climate zones makes Zweigelt a popular choice in regions with shorter vegetation periods. Canadian Zweigelt, especially from Ontario and British Columbia, has been gaining increasing attention in recent years. And it is particularly surprising that even Japan now has its own small Zweigelt vineyards. Nevertheless, Zweigelt grows best in its home country – it is here that the variety finds what it likes and needs, especially in Austria’s most eastern wines of origin region Neusiedlersee, where the location(s), the microclimate of the surrounding lake and the diligent winegrowers turn Zweigelt into specifically regionally typical Neusiedlersee DAC.
6. Zweigelt: the cool summer wine
There is an unwritten rule in people’s minds that you should “drink red wine at room temperature”. And most of us never think of doing anything else, even though the idea actually became outdated long ago. When this mindset originated, the temperature of our homes was still approx. 17–18 degrees, before 23 degrees became the norm. Therefore, it seems reasonable to assume that the image of swirling warm wine in a large glass is a slight misunderstanding – at least for wines with a lower density. If we take this thought a little further, we soon reach a chilled light red wine. And chilled Zweigelt is especially suitable, according to master sommelier Stefan Neumann. His job has taken him around the globe for years, and so he always knows what is currently being enjoyed in the different parts of the world. What’s more, he has predicted an especially promising future for regionally typical Neusiedlersee DAC Zweigelt. This grape variety is not just easily accessible, it can also be enjoyed as both a dense wine and also a fresh and light drink. And it is precisely this versatile Zweigelt that is ideal for chilled drinks, which is a lot of fun in the summer, says Neumann. Steve Breitzke from MAST in Vienna goes even further: “When it is really hot, sometimes we serve red wine in a bucket of ice. And ice cubes have even started appearing in wine glasses.” Neumann adds: “People are allowed to drink wine how ever they like. There is no right or wrong.” The best thing about this approach is the emergence of new trends – like enjoying chilled Zweigelt in the summer.
7. Zweigelt: the creator
Changes in the climate have caused botanists around the world to take existing grape varieties and develop new, especially resilient ones based on them. In the late 1990s, scientist Gertrude Mayer (Klosterneuburg College of Viticulture and Pomology – HBLA) used Zweigelt to breed a new variety called Roessler. This combines the quality of classic Zweigelt with an even greater resilience to fungus. Known as a PiWi grape variety, Roessler has been registered in Austria as a quality variety since 2000. It is also occasionally called Schwarzer Zweigelt (Black Zweigelt) due to the intensity of its colours.
In any event, one thing is absolutely certain: The banks of Lake Neusiedl are an ideal place to be for anyone who likes surprises, and also for those who value traditional handicraft and epicurean pleasures. For all its complexity, Zweigelt offers almost every red wine enthusiast exactly what they are looking for: pure indulgence.
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Neusiedlersee DAC.
Unique Zweigelt. Unique sweet wines.
From the bright side of Austria. For the enjoyment of all.
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